Mount Rinjani, with its towering presence and challenging trails, beckons adventurers from around the world. For one couple, this majestic peak became the backdrop of their most demanding and rewarding expedition yet—a three-day, two-night trek that tested their limits and left them with unforgettable memories.
Embarking on the Adventure
The journey began with palpable excitement as the duo prepared to hike to the second-highest active volcano in Indonesia. Opting for a full expedition, they planned to spend three days within the volcano’s realm, camping for two nights. A dedicated support team accompanied them: a knowledgeable guide and two incredible porters responsible for carrying essential supplies like food, drinks, and camping gear.
The night before the ascent, they underwent a health check, including blood pressure measurements, underscoring the seriousness of the endeavor. “I’m getting healthier and healthier,” one of them remarked with a mix of humor and anticipation. Fully aware of the 2,800-meter vertical climb ahead, they fueled up with a hearty breakfast—every calorie would count on the challenging path to the summit.
Day One: From Sembalun Village to the Crater Rim
Setting out from Sembalun Village under the morning sun, they embarked on an eight-hour trek. The initial trail was dotted with rest stops, providing a chance to hydrate and take in the changing landscapes. At a natural water spring, they encountered their first test of trust and adventure. The water, though drinkable, had an unusual smell. Remembering a local saying, “Never try, never know,” they decided to quench their thirst, hopeful that their stomachs would agree with the choice.
After two hours, they reached Position 2, a bustling rest area resembling a small village. Here, they witnessed the resourcefulness of local vendors selling everything from pineapples and watermelons to snacks and drinks—even a bakso (meatball soup) stall. The prices were a bit higher due to the altitude and the effort required to bring goods up the mountain, but supporting the locals was a cause they were happy to contribute to.
Continuing towards Position 3, the terrain began to change dramatically. They traversed grassy fields and navigated paths near cliffs formed by the 2018 earthquake that struck Lombok. Upon reaching Position 3, they reunited with their porters, who were busy preparing an incredible lunch. The spread exceeded their expectations—freshly cooked dishes that provided much-needed energy. The couple expressed immense gratitude, noting, “This is a service we haven’t even dreamt of.”
The Steep Climb to Sembalun Crater Rim
Eager to understand the porters’ experience, they attempted to lift the heavy loads themselves. Struggling under the weight, they gained a newfound appreciation for these “heroes” who effortlessly carried 35 kilograms up the mountain in flip-flops.
The journey from Position 3 to Position 4 marked the beginning of the steeper ascent. The trail became more challenging, but the encouragement from their guide and the camaraderie between them kept spirits high. By the time they reached Position 4, they were at 2,100 meters above sea level, amazed to still find shops offering snacks—a testament to the locals’ dedication.
The final push to the Sembalun Crater Rim was the most demanding. With a 500-meter vertical gain over just 1.3 kilometers, the trail tested their endurance. Each step brought them closer to their first campsite, and the sight of tents at the crater rim filled them with a sense of accomplishment.
Camping Above the Clouds
Their campsite was nothing short of luxurious for a mountain setting. Equipped with thick mattresses, warm sleeping bags rated for minus ten degrees, and even pillows, they settled into their “five-star” accommodation. As the sun set, they enjoyed a hot curry prepared by their porters, marveling at how such a meal could be crafted under such conditions.
Though the sunset was obscured by clouds, the night sky later revealed a tapestry of stars—perhaps the most they had ever seen. The couple retired early, knowing they would wake at 1:40 a.m. for the summit attempt.
Day Two: Reaching the Summit
The early morning wake-up call was softened by a “breakfast of champions” that included chocolate—a quick source of energy for the arduous climb ahead. Donning headlamps, they began their ascent in the darkness.
The climb to the summit at 3,726 meters was divided into three parts. The first was manageable, but as they reached the crater rim at 3,000 meters, the path steepened significantly. The final stretch was the most challenging—a 45-degree incline covered in loose rocks and sand. Every two steps forward resulted in one step sliding back.
To add to the difficulty, they were enveloped in a cold, humid cloud with strong winds. Visibility dropped, and the frigid conditions tested their resolve. Despite these hurdles, they pressed on and reached the summit. “We fought with all of our powers and somehow made it to the top,” they recounted. Although the panoramic views were limited due to the weather, the sense of achievement was immense.
Descending from the peak, the skies began to clear, offering fleeting but breathtaking views of the caldera and surrounding landscapes. They took in the beauty, grateful for even a brief glimpse of the scenery they had worked so hard to reach.
Choosing the Torean Route and a Welcoming Hot Spring
Originally planning to visit the Senaru Crater Rim, they decided to alter their route due to unfavorable weather forecasts. Opting for the Torean route, they began their descent towards Segara Anak Lake. The path was steep and required careful navigation over large rocks—a different kind of challenge compared to the sandy slopes of the summit.
Upon reaching the lake, they were greeted with a sight that made every step worthwhile. The turquoise waters of Segara Anak, nestled within the caldera, were framed by the active volcanic cone of Mount Barujari. Local fishermen dotted the shores, and the serene environment provided a peaceful backdrop for their lunch.
Their guide led them to a private campsite, complete with their own hot spring—a natural jacuzzi with water at a perfect 38 degrees Celsius. Soaking in the sulfur-rich waters, they felt their fatigue melt away. “After hiking like 3,000 vertical meters and not showering once, this is more than welcome,” they shared, embracing the well-deserved relaxation.
Day Three: The Beauty of Torean Valley
Well-rested after an 11-hour sleep, they prepared for the final day—a nine-kilometer hike expected to take eight hours. The Torean Valley unfolded before them, revealing some of the most stunning scenery of their entire journey. Towering green slopes, cascading waterfalls, and the grandeur of the valley left them in awe.
A highlight of the day was the Penimbungan Waterfall, the largest in the valley, which they reached after four hours of trekking. The path then led them through dense jungle—a challenging, muddy stretch that tested their remaining energy. After two exhausting hours, the jungle gave way to fruit gardens, signaling they were nearing the end of their trek.
Triumphant Arrival and Reflection
Finally reaching Torean Village, they were overwhelmed with a sense of accomplishment. Greeted by their support team, they expressed heartfelt gratitude. “Without these guys, I don’t think we’d be able to get to the top of that amazing mountain,” they acknowledged, highlighting the indispensable role of their guide and porters.
Reflecting on their adventure, they felt a mix of exhaustion and elation. The trek had pushed them physically and mentally but rewarded them with experiences and vistas that few are privileged to witness. From the challenging summit climb to the soothing hot springs and the breathtaking Torean Valley, every moment had been extraordinary.
Final Thoughts
For this adventurous couple, hiking Mt. Rinjani was more than just reaching a summit—it was about the journey, the people they met, and the natural wonders they encountered along the way. Their decision to take the less-traveled Torean route added a unique dimension to their experience, showcasing the diverse beauty of the mountain.
As they bid farewell to Mount Rinjani, they knew that the memories and lessons from this expedition would stay with them forever. “We hope we showed you what to expect if you choose the Torean route,” they shared, eager to inspire others to embark on their own Rinjani adventure.
