Laura McFarland wasn’t planning to climb a volcano when she arrived in Indonesia. The thought of sandy beaches, warm waves, and colorful tropical drinks dominated her vision for her three weeks in the country. But a photo of Mt. Rinjani—a 12,224-foot giant dominating Lombok’s skyline—shifted everything. It was an impulsive decision, one made not out of logic but a desire to see Indonesia from a new perspective. What followed was an adventure that tested her endurance, showcased jaw-dropping beauty, and delivered some of her most treasured memories.
Senaru: The Gateway to Rinjani
The journey began in the tranquil mountain village of Senaru, nestled at the base of the formidable Mt. Rinjani. For Laura and her partner, the village offered more than just a starting point; it was a place to acclimate to the slower, earthy rhythm of Lombok. The couple had traveled three hours from the island’s southern beaches, their tour package ensuring smooth transitions, a comfortable homestay, and even a short hike to the famous Tiu Kelep waterfall.
The waterfall—a towering cascade of clear, roaring water—offered Laura her first taste of the natural wonders Lombok held beyond its shores. The short trek to reach it was slippery and adventurous, requiring wading through streams and navigating moss-covered rocks. But the sight of Tiu Kelep’s misty spray against the backdrop of dense jungle was worth every effort. It was a fitting prelude to the challenges and rewards that lay ahead on Rinjani.
Day One: Into the Jungle
At dawn, the group gathered, gear secured in a flatbed truck. Laura and her partner joined a handful of fellow trekkers, local porters, and their guide. As the truck rumbled toward Sembalun village, the air buzzed with nervous energy. Rinjani’s summit loomed high above, its peak shrouded in wispy clouds, a quiet reminder of the climb ahead.
The trek began modestly, with a meandering path through rolling hills and patches of jungle. The laughter of porters, the clanging of their bamboo carriers, and the occasional call of wild monkeys broke the early morning silence. Laura marveled at their strength and ease—porters carrying upwards of 50 pounds of gear, often barefoot or in flimsy sandals, navigating the steep trail with grace.
As the day progressed, the trail grew steeper and the air heavier. The midday sun bore down as the group paused for a break at one of the small huts dotting the route. Porters transformed the simple shelter into a makeshift kitchen, whipping up mie goreng (stir-fried noodles) with an efficiency that left Laura impressed and grateful. The meal energized her for the next leg, which would prove more grueling.
The Crater Rim: A Hard-Earned Reward
By late afternoon, the lush greenery gave way to the rugged volcanic terrain. The switchbacks steepened, and Laura found herself pausing frequently to catch her breath. The altitude became a subtle adversary, her muscles screaming for relief as the crater rim inched closer. Porters continued to pass her effortlessly, their cheerful demeanor a stark contrast to her burning thighs.
At last, the group reached the rim, their campsite perched on the edge of the caldera. Below them lay Segara Anak Lake, a turquoise gem cradled in the heart of the volcano. In the distance, the summit of Rinjani glowed faintly in the fading sunlight, an unattainable dream for the moment. The porters pitched tents and served a warm curry dinner as the trekkers soaked in the surreal landscape. Exhausted but exhilarated, Laura fell asleep quickly, knowing the real challenge lay ahead.
Day Two: A Race Against the Dawn
At 2:30 a.m., the group stirred to life. The air was icy, their breath visible in the glow of headlamps. The summit awaited, but the path to it was no simple feat. As Laura began the ascent, the trail seemed to conspire against her. Every step forward was accompanied by a half-slide back on the loose volcanic gravel. The only comfort was the shared struggle—the flicker of headlamps forming a winding line of determination up the mountain.
Hours passed in darkness, the climb stealing breath and energy. Laura began to feel the effects of altitude sickness—lightheadedness, tingling fingers, and an unsettling dizziness. Her guide remained patient and supportive, urging her to rest and offering snacks to keep her energy up. Though tempted to stop, Laura’s resolve hardened. She hadn’t come this far to turn back.
As the first hints of pink and orange painted the horizon, the summit finally came into view. With the sun rising behind her, Laura reached the peak. She was overwhelmed by the 360-degree panorama: the vast ocean, the vibrant blue lake, and the jagged ridges of the caldera. It was a sight that demanded silence, the kind of beauty that words could never capture.
The Long Descent
Descending the summit felt like liberation. The loose gravel that had been an enemy on the way up became an unlikely ally, allowing Laura to half-slide, half-run back to the crater rim. Breakfast awaited, a simple but satisfying meal of eggs and coffee that restored some semblance of energy.
The remainder of the descent was a test of endurance. Six hours of steep declines took their toll on Laura’s knees and feet. The jungle canopy offered shade, but the trail’s relentless roots and rocks demanded constant attention. By the time the group reached the trailhead, exhaustion had set in completely. The sight of the waiting truck brought a wave of relief.
Reflections on Rinjani
Back at the homestay that evening, Laura replayed the journey in her mind. Hiking Mt. Rinjani had been one of the hardest physical challenges she’d ever faced, but it was also one of the most rewarding. The mountain had tested her limits, pushing her beyond what she thought possible. It had shown her a side of Indonesia she hadn’t anticipated—one of raw, untamed beauty and incredible resilience.
Would she do it again? Probably not. But Laura knew that standing on Rinjani’s summit had changed her, even if just a little. It was a reminder of what she was capable of and a testament to the rewards of stepping outside her comfort zone.
Mt. Rinjani may have been the bane of her existence for two grueling days, but it had also left her with memories that would last a lifetime.
