The allure of Mt. Rinjani—a 3,800-meter-high active volcano on Lombok—had been calling to Chantae for some time. Known for its breathtaking views and punishing terrain, this trek had earned its reputation as one of Indonesia’s most grueling yet rewarding adventures. Chantae, a seasoned adventurer and writer, set out on the 3D/2N Summit and Lake Trek, ready to tackle the physical and mental challenges that lay ahead.
The Journey Begins
The day began with an early breakfast of banana pancakes and tea, the kind of sugary fuel that hikers jokingly curse later but can’t resist. Chantae and her group—comprising friends and fellow adventurers—gathered at the trailhead, registering their trek and meeting the porters who would carry their gear. As they set off, the grasslands rolled out before them, dotted with grazing yaks and the occasional treacherous pile of dung.
Within the first hour, the group’s chatter quieted, replaced by the rhythmic crunch of boots on dirt. The path to the crater rim was unforgiving—a direct ascent with no switchbacks to temper the incline. The sun bore down mercilessly, drenching everyone in sweat. Chantae paused to adjust her backpack, the wet fabric clinging to her like a second skin.
“Whoever designed this trail must have hated hikers,” she muttered to her friend Reuben, who grinned and nodded in agreement.
Porters: The Unsung Heroes
The porters who accompanied the group carried unimaginable loads—up to 50 kilograms of gear—on their shoulders or balanced on poles. Most wore nothing more than flip-flops. Their endurance and skill left Chantae in awe, but it also highlighted the stark contrast between their reality and the hikers’ own. These men, with their hardened calluses and relentless pace, were the true backbone of every trek up Mt. Rinjani.
Lunch was a revelation. Chantae had expected the utilitarian fare of instant noodles or trail mix, but instead, the porters laid out a full spread of vegetable fried rice, fresh fruit, and even chilled sodas. The unexpected luxury felt almost indulgent amidst the raw wilderness.
The Push to the Crater Rim
As the hours stretched on, the trail became steeper and more rugged. Loose rocks and tree roots turned every step into a calculated risk. Chantae, wearing her usual jogging shoes rather than proper hiking boots, felt her confidence waver with each slip and stumble. Her legs grew heavier, her breath shorter.
By the time they reached the cloud line, the group had stratified into faster and slower hikers. Chantae pushed through the fog, repeating a simple mantra: A body in motion stays in motion. But her resolve was tested when they passed a sobbing hiker who had stopped just shy of the crater rim. It was a reminder of how unforgiving Mt. Rinjani could be.
Finally, the fog cleared, and the crater rim came into view. Chantae’s heart pounded as she took in the sight: a turquoise lake cradled by jagged peaks, its surface shimmering under the late afternoon sun. Exhausted but exhilarated, she high-fived Reuben and dropped her backpack, letting out a triumphant laugh.
A Night on the Edge
The campsite was a cluster of neon tents perched precariously on the rim, overlooking the vast crater. The porters had arrived ahead of the group and set everything up, including a hot meal of vegetable curry and ginger tea. Chantae, still buzzing from the ascent, asked the porters to fill her metal water bottle with hot tea to keep her warm through the night.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, the sky erupted in a kaleidoscope of colors—pinks, oranges, and purples blending into the deep blue of night. Despite her fatigue, Chantae felt a profound sense of gratitude. The journey had already been grueling, and the hardest part—the summit push—was yet to come, but for now, she allowed herself to revel in the moment.
Preparing for the Summit
The plan was to wake at 1:30 a.m. for the final ascent. Gus, the lead guide, briefed the group on the dangers of the trail ahead, including a narrow ridge with steep drops on either side. “If you fall there,” he said with a grave expression, “the lights go out.”
Nerves rippled through the group. Some debated whether to even attempt the summit, but Chantae was resolute. “You have to try,” she urged them. “You can’t come all this way and not give it a shot.”
As she crawled into her tent that night, hugging her warm water bottle, Chantae wondered if she had the strength to make it. The thought of turning back nagged at her, but so did the anticipation of seeing the sunrise from the top of the mountain. Sleep came fitfully, interrupted by the rustle of the wind and the occasional sound of footsteps outside.
The Climb to the Summit
In the frigid darkness, the group began the ascent to the summit. The trail was steep, the volcanic ash underfoot making every step a struggle. Chantae’s legs burned with every movement, and her breath came in ragged gasps. She fell into a rhythm, counting steps to distract herself from the pain.
“One, two, three… five more steps,” she repeated in her head, willing herself forward.
The group moved in near silence, their headlamps casting narrow beams of light on the treacherous path. When Chantae felt herself faltering, Gus was there with a steadying hand and a quiet word of encouragement.
As the first rays of dawn broke over the horizon, Chantae reached the summit. The view was indescribable. Below her, the crater lake gleamed like a sapphire, and the shadow of the volcano stretched across the clouds. Tears welled in her eyes as she took it all in—the beauty, the struggle, the overwhelming sense of accomplishment.
A Journey Transformed
The descent from the summit was no less challenging, but it came with the satisfaction of knowing the hardest part was over. Back at the crater rim, the group shared breakfast and recounted their individual experiences of the climb. For Chantae, the trek up Mt. Rinjani was more than just a physical challenge—it was a journey of resilience, camaraderie, and connection to nature.
As she packed up her gear and prepared for the trek down to Senaru Village, Chantae couldn’t help but feel a deep respect for the mountain and the people who made the journey possible. Hiking Mt. Rinjani had tested her limits, but it had also given her a renewed sense of gratitude and awe.
And as the trail wound down into the lush forests below, she carried those lessons with her, knowing that this adventure would remain etched in her memory forever.
